Jamie Brisick Interview - Ex-Pro Surfer/Editor of Surfing Magazine Turned Travel Writer

Jamie Brisick would appear to lead a charmed life - traveling the world, meeting colourful characters and making a living out of it. But the role of adventurer is all borne of hard work and a passion for life. Falmouth People interviewed Jamie about surfing, writing... and lepers.

FalmouthPeople: What is it that makes a good surfer? You hear people say that anyone can do it - but clearly not everyone can do it well! Is it just a case of dogged determination?

Jamie Brisick: The hardest part is learning the ocean. Anyone who's skied, skate- or snowboarded can take to surfing quite easily, but the massive hurdle is paddling, duckdiving, i.e., gracefully getting through a big mound of whitewater, sitting on the board, spinning around, paddling, hopping up at exactly the right time, and setting your line. Sounds easy but water is slippery, steep, forever in flux. It's a good six months to a year of getting whacked around, and then the magic starts to unfold. So yes, dogged determination is big part of it. To be a good surfer takes balance, strength, timing, sharp reflexes, flexibility, etc. Grace is a big part of it as well. It's a bit like ballet, bullfighting, and martial arts all rolled into one.

FP: In terms of writing, who do you admire the most? What kind of books do you tend to go for?

JB: Paul Theroux's books have always been incredibly inspiring, especially considering I started reading him while I was a touring pro surfer, in a new town every week. I read a lot of Henry Miller when I lived in Sydney, which helped romanticize my expat status. Lately I've been reading for great language and sentences: John Banville, TC Boyle, James Salter, Nabokov, Updike. I've been enjoying David Foster Wallace, as well as Junot Diaz. I read mostly fiction, and am a real sucker for a strong,original voice. How the book ends seems less important than the hopefully dazzling pages that get you there.

FP:You have traveled the world and met so many people - is there one place or encounter that really stands out to you or had a special impact upon you?

JB: There have been plenty of weird, unforgettable, David Lynch-likeexperiences, but what traveling has done for me, above all else, is shown me infinite possibilities. When I was a teenager I was a punk rocker, and defaulted to whining and pointing out all that was wrong about my bland suburban neighborhood. When I started traveling I realized that there is this great big world out there, and that you can hop planes the way most people hop busses. I got over the fear and anxiety that comes with landing in a foreign, non English-speaking country with very little money. I shed a lot of my inhibitions, hang-ups, and prerequisites for happiness. I was able to see America (my home country) with detachment. It was a great revelation for me. As for specific places, I sure like Brazil.

FP: Explain to us in 5 words what you love about surfing?

JB: Streaking across water without thought.

FP: And now explain in 5 words what you love about your new vocation?

JB: Chewing on words/sentences obsessively.

FP: And finally - any tips for prospective pro-surfers orpro-writers/travellers out there?

JB: I feel unqualified to be handing out advice, which I guess is a kind of advice unto itself, but here goes: As for surfing, the more you surround yourself with greats the more likely it will rub off. Go to Hawaii, Indo, Tahiti. Pour yourself into it, 'cause the pro surf dream generally ends real early in life. As for pro-writing/traveling, likewise, read voraciously, toss yourself to experience, learn as much as you can about wherever you're visiting, and like Papillon, when the disfigured leper passes you the cigar, by all means take a puff.

From users of Falmouthpeople.co.uk:

What made you decide to write?

JB: I was always a big reader and journal keeper, and when my pro surfing career abruptly ended in '92, I needed to do something of a creative, expressive nature. I started writing for surf magazines, and then writing blossomed from there.

Did it take you long to learn how to surf?

JB: About six months before it really opened up. You should enter into surfing knowing that you'll pretty much be banging your head against a wall for the first six, twelve months. The price of admission.

What was it like working with Ross Clarke-Jones on The Sixth Element?

JB: Incredible. He's one of the most dynamic, fascinating, animal-like humans I've ever met.  And he drives like complete maniac.

You can follow Jamie's encounters and experiences on his own website - and he will also be appearing at the Port Eliot Festival in Cornwall next week, July 24th to 26th. Read more about the festival in our earlier article here http://tinyurl.com/kj95um

Images courtesy of Jamie Brisick.